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Wednesday, November 18, 2015

Poly bag Consumption and Costing in Garments Industry

Poly bag costing is another important task for apparel merchandisers. It also keeps effect on total pricing of order. 

Poly bags, commonly known as polythene bags, have a variety of uses in many industries. This is a plastic packet (pouch) used to contain garments destined for export or to merchandise so that apparels remain intact and they could not obtain dust, dirt or moisture. In particular to garments, the material used may be of LDPE, PP. In these LDPE can be recyclable, and others cannot be recycled.
Most used poly bags in garments industries are PP (polypropylene) poly bags, PE (polyethylene) & LDPE (low density polyethylene), HDPE (high density polyethylene) etc. Basically there’re three different ways to measure poly bags thickness.

·         Mil (1 mil = 1/1000 of an inch)
·         Microns (1 microns = 1/1000 of a mm)
·         Gauge (1 gauge = 1/100000 of an inch)
Conversion, 1 mil = 25 microns = 100 gauge. 

Note: Gauge is the most used system of counting poly bags’ thickness worldwide.

Example-1: 
A poly bags having length 30 inches, flap 3 inches, width 16 inches, poly thickness 150 gauge. Now find out weight of 1000 pcs poly bags? 

Answer: {(30 + 1.5) x 16 x 150 / 3300} = 22.91 KGs for 1000 pcs 

Formula: KGs needed for 1000 pcs poly bags = {(length + half flap) X width X gauge / 3300} 

Now, if we want to find out weight of 1 pcs poly bag, then we need divide the outcome with 1000. 

Answer: 22.91 / 1000 = 0.023 KGs. (1 pcs poly bag weight) 

Note: You see, I count flap measurement in half (1.5 inches) during calculation because flap is single layer & length, width of a poly bag is double layer. 

Example-2: 
A LDPE poly bag having 28” length, 3” flap, 14” width, 140 gauge thickness with self-adhesive facility and if cost of polymer is $.50 per lb. Let’s find out cost of 1 pc poly bag. 

Solution: 
So, weight of material = (28+3 X 14 X 140) / 3300 

= 60760 / 3300 
= 18.412 kg /1000 pics


To produce 1000 pics of poly bag, need 18.41kg polymer. 

Cost of Material = 18.412kg x $.50 per lb. 

= 18.41 x $1.1/Kg (as we know 1 kg = 2.20 lb.) 
= $20.253 / 1000 pics. 
= $0.020 (cost of 1pc poly bag) 

Cost of Adhesive tape = 28” x $.002 
= $.056 

so, final cost of 1 pc poly bag will be = ($0.020 + $.056) 
= $0.076

Minimum Dyeing and Finishing Charge (TK/Kg)

Dyeing Cost TK/KG
Color
Tube
Open
Ly. S/J
Fleece/
Br.
Viscose
D. Part
(Tube)
D. Part
(Open)
+
15
33
40
30
50
65
Light
90
105
123
130
120
140
155
Medium
95
110
128
135
125
145
160
Dark
100
115
133
140
130
150
165
Average
95
110
128
135
125
145
160
Ex. Dark
115
130
148
155
145
165
180
Turquoise
110
125
143
150
140
160
175
Royal
130
145
163
170
160
180
195
Black
125
140
158
165
155
175
190
White
40
55
73
80
70
90
105
Scoured/ Bleached
38
53
71
78
68
88
103
Only Wash (G. Mélange/Yarn Dyed)
35
50
68
75



Only Enzyme

8





Only Silicone Softener

5





Finishing Cost TK/KG
Only Stenter
18
Only Heatset
20
Only Compacting
10
Only Slitting
4
Only Suidding
20
Only Brushing
8
Only Drying
8


Trims and Accessories Used in Garments Industry


Saturday, November 14, 2015

Carton Costing Calculation Method in Garments Industry


Before calculating carton costing, a garments merchandiser should confirm the following information:
1.      Carton length in cm,
2.      Carton width in cm,
3.      Carton height in cm.

Then, garment merchandiser should calculate ply board consumption for the carton box and multiply with ply board rate.
Now by using the below formula, a garment merchandiser can easily calculate carton box costing in readymade garments industry.
Carton costing (Per pc carton box)
= Ply board consumption (Per pc carton in square meter) × ply board rate (per sq. meter)………… (1)
Now, one example is enough to remove your all the confusions from the above discussion.
Example:
Suppose, a 5 ply carton having length 65cm, width 45cm and height 12cm. Now calculate Carton box costing for 400pcs carton box. (Where, 5 ply board rate is $0.65 per square meter).
Solution:
Here,
Carton length – 65cm,
Width of carton- 45cm,
Carton height – 12cm,
5 ply board rate per square meter- $0.65
Total carton-400pcs.
So, Ply board consumption (Per pc carton in square meter),
= 1.41 square meter per pc carton.
Now, from (1), we get-
Carton costing (Per pc carton box),
= Ply board consumption (Per pc carton in square meter) × ply board rate (per sq. meter)
= 1.41 × 0.65
=$0.92 per pc carton box.
So,
For 1pc carton, carton box costing stands at =$0.92.
And,
For 400pcs carton, carton box costing will be (0.92 × 400) = $368.


Sunday, November 8, 2015

What is Spirality on Fabric?

Definition:
 "Spirality" arises from twist stress in the constituents yams of plain fabric, causing all loops to distort and throwing the fabric wales and courses into an angular relationship other than 90 degree.


Reasons:
Plain knitted fabric made from single cotton yam are most prone to spirality, the degree being related to the number of twist/unit length in the yam. Such yam is said to be "twist lively" and, unlike similarly constructed yams produced from thermoplastic fibers, cannot be heat set in yarn or fabric form to eliminate spirality.
Measurement:
 Spirality is measured by the number of degrees of distortion that the fabric is away from a 90o relationship of wale to course. Fabrics of around 10o spirality are commonly processed, although acceptability varies with the quality, price bracket, and end use of the particular goods.

Treatment:
Resin treatment known as cross-linking is sometimes used to reduce the degree of distortion due to spirality. The resin is applied to the fabric in aqueous solution and is set by passing the fabric once through a high temperature stenter. Besides eliminating some or all of the spriality, improved dimensional stability, appearance and handle are claimed for this process. However, it will weaken the strength of the cotton fabric.
How to avoid it:
Spirality is minimized by the use of double (two-fold) yams, but this pushes up the price prohibitively in all but the most expensive garment. Spirality does not occur in IXI rib and interlock fabrics, the loops formed in opposite directions cancelling out the distortion.
How about the number of feeders on Spirality:

Another mild form of spirality occurs in fabrics produced on multi-feeder circular machines, because the number of course knitted in one revolution of the machine distorts the wale/course relationship. For example, a 30 inch diameter machine with 90 feeders of 20 gauge will knit approximately 3 inch of fabric every revolution. This will produce, if the fabric is finished 90 inch open width. 2 o of spirality.

Test parameter requirement in garments stage.

 Testing protocol is depending on the customer type and requirement. Basically, this are the basic tests required in garments test. ...